All's Well That Ends Well... Brunch at DuMont

My Williamsburg friend and I were discussing brunch options this morning. "How is Gribouille's menu?" I wondered. "They have a good prix fixe - it's three courses," said my friend.

"I don't know if I'm in the mood for three courses this morning," I said. "Then why don't we check out the new PT?" suggested my friend. "Someone told me it was fabulous."

We walked over to South 3rd and Bedford, and PT, a new Italian restaurant, was not open for brunch. "What about Bonita across the street?" asked my friend. "I thought that place was OK," I said, "but they skimped on my huevos rancheros." We continued walking and wondering what to do.

We decided to walk to Diner, that eminence grise of Williamsburg restaurants. There was a crowd waiting outside, and as we approached the door, we saw masses of people standing inside as well. I sighed, but perked up when my friend informed me that Diner's owners had opened Marlow and Sons, a little restaurant/gourmet market next door. Although the restaurant did not serve brunch, I was excited to find out that the market, which was somewhat reminiscent of the popular Bedford Cheese Shop, offered fresh-baked goods ("We bake everything except the croissants," said the counterperson). There were all kinds of goodies: apple scones, bacon gruyere scones, raisin-studded iced bear claws. I wondered if we might grow hungry during our search for brunch, so I ordered a deliciously crumbly apple scone and a huge tomato mozzarella basil sandwich. My friend laughed. "When are you going to eat that?"

We kept walking. "Dressler is hot," said my friend. "I wonder if they have brunch?" A lovely woman named Christina told us that Sunday brunch will be served starting October 1. She handed us an enticing new fall dinner menu - it included braised short ribs with parsnip puree, pea & Fontina raviolini, and pan-roasted quail with baked white polenta - and those were just the appetizers!

Now we were really hungry. "Do you think we might get into Colin Devlin's original spot, Dumont?" I asked. "There's probably a line," replied my friend dolefully. Still, we resolved to walk all the way over to Union Avenue. When we finally reached DuMont, we were welcomed by a smiling server and an empty table!

There were so many appetizing choices... eggs Florentine or Benedict on brioche toast, croque-monsieur, smoked trout salad with a poached egg. I ordered the special smoked salmon omelette and my friend chose the huevos rancheros with eggs over easy.

We were surprised by a complimentary plate of warm, sugar-sprinkled doughnut holes. (What a wonderful way to begin a brunch!) The entrees arrived without delay - according to my friend, many Williamsburg restaurants suffer from lackadaisical service - but not DuMont. The smoked salmon omelette was wonderfully fluffy with a filling of thick salmon slices and tangy puffs of dill-flecked goat cheese. Also served were a refreshing mixed green salad and some really amazing home fries. Large chunks of well-salted fried potato were perfectly crispy on the outside, light as air on the inside. The potatoes were mixed with onions and red peppers, and all vegetables kept their shape instead of being smooshed into an overcooked, unrecognizable mass. My friend liked his huevos rancheros with black beans (the avocado in his salad was a nice touch), but he preferred my entree. I tried to be generous with it.

The finishing touch was a warm, dense chocolate brownie with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream!

Dumont: 432 Union Ave., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, (718) 486-7717.

The Ultimate Chocolate Eclair

If there's a better chocolate éclair than the one at Jacques Torres, I haven't found it. Chocolate cream, fluffy as pudding, is generously piped into a moist, eggy éclair shell, one half of which is thinly coated with what amounts to an entire semisweet chocolate bar criss-crossed with white chocolate. Why did I only buy one?

Jacques Torres Chocolate: 66 Water St., Brooklyn, (718) 875-9772, and 350 Hudson St., (212) 414-2462.

Convivium Osteria

I have a friend with the good fortune to live half a block away from Convivium Osteria. (Now if only I knew someone who lived across from Al Di La.) Yesterday was her birthday, and along with our companions, we celebrated in Convivium's intimate backyard garden. (The main room is lovely as well, with walls decorated by copper pots and long strings of garlic cloves.)

As we munched on olives and bread, my friend remarked how she felt transported far outside of Brooklyn. (Unfortunately, this mood would soon be marred by jarring music from the adjacent backyard. But such is life in the big city!)

Our waiter recommended a bottle of 2000 So Syrah, and we all got to work on choosing some appetizers and entrees. Because of the spinach crisis, a beet and spinach salad would be replaced by one made with watercress, walnut and Cabrales. Several dishes caught my eye: meat-filled cappeletti in a free-range hen consomme, pappardelle and braised oxtail, free-range quail in with figs and port wine sauce.

For appetizers, we ordered the watercress salad, pan-fried Portuguese sardines, and seafood assortment. The salad delighted me with its generously sprinkled, pungent Cabrales. A light walnut vinaigrette dressed the peppery watercress leaves. The seafood assortment included crab-stuffed red peppers, a prawn, fritters of salt cod and onion, and boquerones. These white anchovies were a pleasant surprise; they are sometimes overbrined.

My dinner selection was the artichoke Bel Paese ravioli in a butter sauce. Although I was a wee bit disappointed that there were only five ravioli surrounding the buttery artichoke hearts, the filling was very creamy and rich. I also got to taste the moist red snapper with capers, tomatoes and sliced potatoes, the pinenut-crusted rack of lamb with nicely-browned cauliflower, and a whole sea bass.

Dessert was excellent, especially the flourless chocolate cake. Not too dense or sweet, it was smooth in texture and melted in my mouth. A dollop of whipped cream and raspberries was a perfect garnish. I also liked the panna cotta smothered with blueberries and a plum tart sporting plenty of big tangy slices of plum and a buttery crust.

A few double espressos later, we noticed the anxious glances of our waiter - the line out Convivium's door had grown exponentially, so we vacated our seats for the next happy diners. (I recommend arriving around 6 or 6:30 p.m., if possible. Although Convivium is not quite as hard to get into as Al Di La, it's getting there!) I hope my friend had as good a time celebrating her birthday as I did.

Convivium Osteria: 68 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 857-1833.

Summer's Last Berries at Almondine

It seems that summer has made a brief reappearance. Almondine, the French bakery owned by Jacques Torres and Herve Poussot, is celebrating by making use of the season's ripe strawberries in a refreshing ice cream shake topped with real whipped cream. The fresh berries are also featured atop a layer of pastry cream in Almondine's fruit tarts ($3.50). If raspberries are more your style, try the sugar-sprinkled raspberry version.

Almondine, 85 Water St., Brooklyn, (718) 797-5026.

Rasam: A Cure For What Ails You

The summer-to-fall transition sometimes challenges my immunity. Last night, I was feeling the beginnings of a cold, and I craved something spicy. However, I wondered if a bowl of soup might be more effective.

I found the best medicine at Chennai Garden, which serves rasam, an incredibly spicy South Indian soup. The light tamarind broth boasts a huge whole red chili in addition to bay leaves, diced tomatoes and black mustard seeds. When I ordered it, the waiter tried to dissuade me. I shocked him by drinking up the whole bowl and barely touching my glass of water. My eyes were watering and my throat was burning, but I forgot I even had a cold.

When the waiter brought the check, I told him my reason for ordering the rasam. "It will make you feel better," he said encouragingly. Indeed, I woke up today and the cold was gone!

Chennai Garden: 129 East 27th St., (212) 689-1999.

Restaurant SEO

This morning, I flipped to the Tokyo On The Hudson article in New York Magazine, and I immediately set about checking out some of the recommendations.

Unfortunately, I was to find that the article would lead me astray. Walking up and down 9th Ave., I was sure that I'd somehow missed the new Kyotofu dessert bar, but the treat emporium was nowhere to be found. Finally I realized that the half-painted, permit-plastered space at 705 Ninth Ave. was the site of the very unfinished Kyotofu.

My second stop was Conran's, where I intended to check out the Japanese style exhibition and perhaps buy some tableware. When I breathlessly asked where the items were, I was told that the exhibition didn't start until Thursday.

Now I was crestfallen, and hungry to boot. Thankfully, I happened upon Restaurant SEO, a small, authentic Japanese restaurant which features a peaceful rock garden. I sat down and devoured a tuna roll, which had a perfect tuna/rice ratio (tuna rolls at inferior establishments often skimp on the rosy pink fish). Then I enjoyed a bowl of surprisingly delicate tempura udon made with thin, slippery inaniwa udon noodles. (Previously, I had only been acquainted with the thicker variety.) The tempura included lightly fried Japanese eggplant and shrimp. A bowl of ume plum rice with shredded shiso was also served, but I would have been satisfied with a tiny plate of pickles. At meal's end, the waiter brought me a mug of roasted green tea. As I sipped it, I was thankful that at least one of my three missions was successful!

Restaurant SEO: 249 East 49th St., (212) 355-7722.

A Very Exciting Package

I've just received an awfully intriguing package courtesy of Yellow Cottage Bakery, a small Wisconsin operation which specializes in chocolate-iced brownies. The package contains one dozen brownies in four varieties: chocolate, chocolate chunk, chocolate walnut and chocolate pecan. The treats are made with 100% natural ingredients like pure vanilla and Wisconsin butter.

Since I just spent the weekend at Mitsuwa's Hokkaido Food Festival, my appetite is somewhat compromised, but I should be able to fit in a brownie or two this evening. I'll report my brownie tasting results soon.

Updated to add: I hereby pronounce these brownies fudgy and wonderful!

Hokkaido Gourmet Food Fair at Mitsuwa

If you'd like to learn firsthand (and firstmouth) about the cuisine of Japan's northernmost island, head over to Mitsuwa Marketplace this weekend. (My friends tell me that the best sea urchin comes from Hokkaido.)

Mitsuwa, 595 River Road, Edgewater, NJ (201) 941-9113. The festival will be held Friday-Sunday.

Momofuku Ssäm Bar

Noodle-soup-master Dave Chang has branched out into new starches with the opening of Momofuku Ssäm Bar. At this new, significantly larger space, he offers a simple menu of stuffed flour tortillas, rice bowls and steamed buns. As at Momofuku Noodle Bar, the ingredients are of high quality (Berkshire pork, organic chicken, Greenmarket corn), but the selections are more limited. Tortillas and rice come in three varieties: chicken, pork or shiitake. The stuffed tortillas are a healthy alternative to a burrito laden with sour cream and cheddar - they are crunchy with green soybeans and slaw, and if they're not spicy enough for you, drizzle on some of the Sriracha sauce.

Momofuku Ssäm Bar: 207 Second Ave., (212) 254-3500.

Coffee Nerds Unite

Daniel Humphries of Cafe Grumpy believes that there's not nearly the coffee culture in New York that this city deserves. However, he's determined to change this state of affairs by throwing a "solidarity event for coffee nerds." If you'd like to try some of the world's best coffees, check your caffeinated self at Cafe Grumpy's door on Wednesday, September 6th at 7:30 p.m. To RSVP, please E-mail daniel@cafegrumpy.com.

Cafe Grumpy: 193 Meserole Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 349-7623.

A Garden Getaway

I've just returned from a quite delicious trip to lush, green Vermont. You can read about this culinary expedition at Salli Vates' Traveling Food Page.

Sweets News

• Chocolat Michel Cluizel is holding two tasting events on August 31 and September 14 from 7-8 p.m. A special chocolate sommelier will teach you the finer points of chocolate appreciation. Please call (212) 477-7335 for reservations.



• If you want to learn even more about chocolate, sign up for the French Culinary Institute's "Chocolate: The Obsession Defined" workshop. Not only will you learn how chocolate is manufactured, but you'll be able to make great chocolate desserts at home! For more information, please E-mail info@frenchculinary.com.

Cafe Condesa

A few months ago, I visited tiny, eight-table Cafe Condesa, which had just opened. I was amazed at how low the prices were (entrees were in the $8-$12 range) for such high-quality food. Now, Cafe Condesa has been "discovered" - reviews are starting to plaster the window, and it's much harder to secure a little black wooden table - but the prices and food haven't changed at all.

Chef Luis Mota works wonders in an open kitchen which is even smaller than the ones in most NYC apartments. Tonight, as I dipped my toasted bread in a gooey, melted wheel of Camembert, I remembered Mota saying that he begins prep work for dinner immediately after breakfast is over. (If you happen to get to Cafe Condesa for breakfast, you'll find fresh-baked muffins and great coffee.)

The dinner menu includes such items as fresh fettucini with Manchego and broccoli rabe, Spanish meatballs, roasted rack of lamb with a roasted wild mushroom-chimichurri sauce, and my choice of the evening: pan-seared salmon over a bed of sauteed spinach, surrounded by small pools of avocado puree, tomatillo salsa and pico de gallo. The portions at Cafe Condesa are small and elegant, like the restaurant.

I finished my meal with the dessert special: Earl Grey creme brulee. I scooped out every last bit of sugary burnt crust and every spoonful of rich custard. Then I got ready to leave, making sure I had all my things - the last time I ate at Cafe Condesa, I'd been in such a state of bliss that I left my jacket there.

Cafe Condesa: 183 West 10th St., (212) 352-0050.

Apizz

Apizz would be easy to miss were it not for its little red neon sign. Last night while we were walking around the Lower East Side, my companion and I were attracted by this sign and walked into a charming room with exposed brick walls and a mosaic skylight.

Although Apizz has a brick oven, we weren't really in the mood for pizza. So we started our meal with glasses of Primitivo, a simple spinach salad with pistachios and cannellini beans, and a plate of fried eggplant slices around a center of fresh, peppered ricotta. This was all pleasant enough, but my entree was the best dish of the meal: a lemon-stuffed whole roasted striped bass on a bed of charred thyme and rosemary, its skin crispy and well-salted. From now on, I must stuff all whole fish with lemon slices!

My companion's baked skate was tasty, although its breadcrumb topping was a bit soggy with all of that white wine and butter. The fish was served with sliced potatoes.

There were four desserts: apple crumble, cheesecake, gelato "sheetcakes" and warm flourless chocolate cake with a scoop of vanilla gelato. We chose the latter (of course) and were amply satisfied with its Valrhona richness. Although I personally prefer molten-centered chocolate cakes (and have written about them ad infinitum), I never met a chocolate cake I didn't like.

Apizz: 217 Eldridge St., (212) 253-9199.

Max Brenner - Part Two

I dropped by Max Brenner with a few friends for the whole chocolate experience. At 9:30 p.m., there was a 20-minute wait, but it quickly passed as we admired the offerings in the chocolate shop. I noticed an all-purpose product called Fresh - it's a fondue, mousse or hot chocolate depending on how you prepare it.

With Usher playing on the stereo and attractive couples sharing desserts, Max Brenner seemed like a real hotspot on its second day. We were led to a table upstairs and given the good news that everything we ordered would be discounted by 10% due to the grand opening.

There were two menus: sweet and savory. The savory menu consisted of quiche, sandwiches and salads, but we were really there for the sweet. Max Brenner offers chocolate in every conceivable permutation from the sublime to the insane. There are bagels filled with melted chocolate bars, warm chocolate soups, chocolate pizzas with grilled marshmallows, chocolate "messes" which you lift out of the pan with your spatula.

We opted for a peanut butter crepe, a chocolate-orange hot chocolate, a dark Venezuelan cocoa served in a "hug mug," and a melted chocolate heart cake. The chocolate-orange hot chocolate was exquisite - creamy and not too sweet, with a slight hint of citrus (if a little less than hot). The dark cocoa also suffered from a lukewarm temperature.

The paper-thin peanut butter crepe arrived with a small vial of peanut butter sauce, and the melted chocolate heart cake came with extra chocolate sauce, a dish of strawberries and vanilla ice cream topped with chocolate swirls. The rich cake was delicious but was not very warm, so the unmelted center had the consistency of frosting instead of syrup.

Judging from how packed the place was, I doubt anyone noticed these small shortcomings. I foresee a Max Brenner in every neighborhood.

Max Brenner: 841 Broadway, (212) 388-0030. Open at 5:30 p.m. for the next couple weeks; hours will then be extended.

Max Brenner - Part One

Max Brenner's Union Square location opened today at 5:30 p.m. I arrived at 5:37, and the loftlike space was already as packed as Shea Stadium during the Subway Series. I pushed through throngs of people to spy the Belgian waffles, brownies and refrigerated chocolate desserts at the take-out counter, but I didn't have time to sit in the large eat-in area. I almost tripped over someone as I made my way over to the small chocolate shop. Although I did snag a cocoa-and-praline-covered pecan sample, I felt so rushed that I will have to make another visit. But first I'll have to finish these boxes of pure milk chocolate thins and milk chocolate cubes filled with praline and caramelized pecan bits.

Max Brenner: 841 Broadway, (212) 388-0030.

Pierre Marcolini Chocolatier

I was on a mission to try new chocolates today. (I've already eaten my way through La Maison Du Chocolat, Richart, Jacques Torres, Michel Cluizel, Chocolate Bar, Cocoa Bar, Chocolate Room Brooklyn, Christopher Norman, Leonidas and MarieBelle.) However, my first two attempts were frustrated; the Max Brenner shop had not yet opened, and when I stopped by Debauve & Gallais, I was greeted by a sign that said they would be closed till July 25!

Fortunately, there were no such obstacles to my enjoyment of Pierre Marcolini, a Belgian chocolatier which opened a Park Avenue store in February 2005. I walked in and marveled at the single-origin cocoa line and the chocolate-chip marshmallows. There were two small tables for lingering, so I ordered some of the excellent Venetian coffee. I also delighted in various truffles, which were delicate in texture and precious in size. I loved the exotic four-spice salted butter caramel, and a dark chocolate-raspberry ganache encased in a white chocolate heart. The 64% cocoa truffle was smoky and intense.

I wanted to extend the bliss, so I left with a box of extra-thin filled chocolates: milk chocolate caramel, bitter ganache, dark chocolate with honey, and praline.

Pierre Marcolini Chocolatier: 485 Park Ave., (212) 755-5150.

The 52nd Summer Fancy Food Show, New York

Where can you walk into a room filled with gourmet foods from all corners of the earth, and enjoy the attention of vendors who entreat you to try whatever you want? Why, the annual Fancy Food Show. If this event is at all indicative of the life of a food buyer, that life is an enviable one indeed.

I walked into the Javits Center with a food industry friend, and we were immediately plied with grilled Christis halloumi cheese from Cyprus. As we walked around, we saw that there was a preponderance of cheese, olives and chocolate. In the cheese category, we greatly enjoyed the luscious ValleBianca mozzarella di bufala and spicy Gorgonzola. Some other finds were the Cuevas marrons glaces from Spain, artisanal garlic pesto gorgonzola wood-fired pizzas from Pizza Roma, Dufflet maple-walnut cookies, fresh spinach-ricotta ravioli from Lazzaroni and Dolcetto tiramisu piroulines.

To quench our thirst, there was Metromint peppermint water and the delightful new fruit juices from Honest Tea. The limeade was amazing, with just a hint of sugar. (We weren't quite as fond of the Ginger Soother - it needed more zip.)

In the midst of all this, there was a woman passing out flyers advertising "Lose Weight In A Week!" How did she get in there?!?

Moto

It's amazing to me that this oh-so-European cafe was once a dreary, drop-ceilinged check cashing place with wall-to-wall carpeting. Although it's still situated right underneath elevated subway tracks, Moto has plenty of sepia-toned charm to spare - I'd like to sit there for hours with a cup of americano and a book.

This past weekend, I met a friend for brunch at Moto. After deliberating over the baked apple pancakes, ham-Swiss panini and Turkish breakfast, we ordered fresh-squeezed orange juice, a hearty breadless sandwich made up of layers of baked, browned eggs and ham, and two eggs in a tomato cream sauce. Both dishes were served with a green salad and well-buttered toast spears. Then we split a remarkable date cake which was surrounded by an ultra-rich, warm caramel sauce. (We fought over the whipped cream.)

Moto features a regular schedule of acoustic music!

Moto: 394 Broadway, Williamsburg, (718) 599-6895.

A Summer Sake Tasting Dinner

On July 18th at 8 p.m., sake sommelier Chizuko Niikawa will pair five summer sakes with Japanese dishes at Cha-An Tea House (230 East 9th St.). For more information and reservations, call (212) 228-8030.

Una Pizza Napoletana (CLOSED 7/09)

Today, I braved the thunderstorms to travel over to the brand-new S'mac, home of 10 different varieties of homemade macaroni and cheese. Unfortunately for me, half of NYC had the same idea, and by the time I arrived, S'mac had actually run out of food. It was 6 p.m., and they would not reopen until 7. Crestfallen, I walked out of the shop. A few doors down, Una Pizza Napoletana was half-empty.

I'd always heard wonderful things about this little pizzeria, so I sat my cheese-craving self down. The room evoked simple, Old World charm, and the menu described mouth-watering ingredients such as San Marzano tomatoes, Southern Italian extra-virgin olive oil, and fresh buffalo mozzarella.

UPT offers only four pizzas: cheeseless tomato, tomato mozzarella, white pizza, and tomato cheese with cherry tomatoes. So, if you're looking for a ham pineapple shredded chicken affair (blasphemy!) this is not the place for you. But the ingredients are of such high quality, and the pizzas so lovingly and artfully prepared, that you won't miss a thing.

I ordered the Margherita (tomato mozzarella) and was struck by what an aromatic pizza it was. A tumble of moist fresh basil decorated the olive-oil drizzled center of the pizza. The dough was fresh, a bit tangy and only slightly charred. (Some famous pizzerias in town tend to over-blacken their crusts.) Chunks of tender buffalo mozzarella melted into rich, fluffy pillows over a simple, delicious tomato sauce. All of the components, delicious on their own, came together in a delectable synergy.

Yes, I will attempt to make another effort (or three) to sample S'mac. But if the lines are as long as those of Shake Shack, I'll just dine at my new favorite pizzeria.

Una Pizza Napoletana: 349 East 12th St., (212) 477-9950.

Ice Cream Season!

As the temperature approaches 90 degrees, you might be craving ice cream. Yesterday, I certainly was, and found myself at Whole Foods buying a pint of this and a pint of that. When I got home, I realized that I'd stumbled upon one of the most delicious ice creams in existence: Laloo's Goat's Milk Ice Cream. Whole Foods carries the Black Mission Fig, Deep Chocolate, Molasses Tipsycake and Vanilla Snowflake flavors. (I'm now on the lookout for Strawberry Darling: strawberries swirled in a balsamic vinegar reduction!)

The creamy, custardy Vanilla Snowflake was quite possibly the best vanilla ice cream I've ever eaten. (I enjoyed it with some Nairn's ginger biscuits and some ripe, plump California cherries.) Amazingly, I preferred the vanilla to the Deep Chocolate, which, although excellent, was slightly less rich than I expected.

The Molasses Tipsycake was a cinnamony, oatmeal-cookie-crumbled, raisin-studded affair. (Ben and Jerry's, eat your heart out!)

For those of you who aren't fond of the distinctive taste of goat's milk (I love it), Laloo's ice cream is quite mild.

A Transcendent Sandwich At Tost

Last night, I enjoyed an incredibly tasty sandwich at Tost Panini and Wine Bar. Normally, when I order panini, I opt for a version which includes melted cheese. (There are many such selections at Tost, including speck-Taleggio-pesto, mozzarella-tomato-basil, and chicken-Fontina-basil.) But for some reason, the sardine sandwich called to me - and what an amazing sandwich it turned out to be! Two sturdy, spicy mayo-moistened slices of grilled bread bookended a filling of slightly briny chopped sardines, capers, and tart roasted tomatoes. The bread was crisp and golden-brown, not overtoasted.

Besides panini, Tost offers bruschetta, salads, cured meats, cheeses, and sweets (lavender panna cotta, anyone?).

Tost Panini and Wine Bar: 427 7th Ave., Park Slope, (718) 965-1075.

Top-Of-The-Line Sushi in Port Washington

I just had a good feeling about Yamaguchi when I walked in. Elderly Japanese women were happily chatting at the sushi bar, and a couple waited for a table to empty. Also, the sign font was right. This may sound strange, but I avoid Japanese restaurants which use the "bamboo" font in their logos.

Soon, I realized that I had found a beloved neighborhood gem. (What a wonderful feeling that is.) I sat down at the sushi bar and ordered the sushi sashimi lunch. I also attempted to order a tempura appetizer, but the waitress dissuaded me, saying I'd be too full. She was right. I couldn't even finish all the crimson slivers of tuna sashimi, buttery yellowtail slabs, sesame-sprinkled cucumber rolls, shrimp, fluke, clam, egg and salmon. And this was just the lunch portion!

Yamaguchi is for the purist; you won't find any spicy mayonnaisey maki here, but you'll be totally fulfilled by the excellent quality of the fish.

Restaurant Yamaguchi: 63 Main St., Port Washington, LI (516) 883-3500. Worth the trip from Manhattan, just take the Port Washington line from Penn Station.

Just My Luck!

After reading this article about Amedei Chocolates, I immediately set about finding a way to order them! But alas... I just received this E-mail:

Dear Salli Vates:

Thank you very much for your recent order of Amedei chocolates. We hope you (or the recipient you have named) will deeply enjoy the tasting experience to come.

Extraordinary demand resulting from the recent publication of an article about Amedei from Food & Wine magazine on MSN.com has regrettably caused a temporary back-order situation which may delay your shipment.

We are taking the following steps to assure that everyone who may be affected by this receives his/her products as quickly as possible:

- We are shipping first to those who ordered on an expedited basis. Expedited orders will be processed first come, first served.

- We are shipping next to those who ordered with standard shipping, with preference to those who indicated at order time that the shipment is a gift.

- If your order value (before shipping and handling) is in excess of $50, we will upgrade you to expedited shipping at our expense.

We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause, and we deeply appreciate your patience while we work to accelerate the delivery your order.

Sincerely,

The Gourmet Services Team, Amedei US
Gourmet.Services@Amedei-US.com
www.Amedei-US.com

(sigh)

Brunch At Old Devil Moon

Long before Blue Smoke and Biscuit, there was Old Devil Moon - a small, Southern joint friendly to both meatophiles and vegetarians. For 14 years, Old Devil Moon has served one of the heartiest, reasonably-priced brunches in the city.

My companion and I took a friend with Southern roots there today - we thought he would appreciate the cheese grits. I agonized over my choice... would it be the huge Fisherman's breakfast (fried catfish, eggs, garlic greens, grits, a large fluffy biscuit with homemade wild blueberry and peach preserves), the McMoon egg, cheddar and meat (bacon, sausage or veggie sausage) sandwich with grits or homefries, or the truly formidable Hungry Man breakfast (3 eggs, a stack of corn or whole wheat pancakes, cheddar grits and choice of meat)?

My companion, in an attempt at healthful eating, ordered the greens, beans and grits - with no eggs! I finally decided on that huge, eggs-spilling-over-the-edges McMoon. Although this sandwich was quite tasty, the biscuit was burnt on top. However, the biscuit in our friend's Fisherman's Breakfast was just perfect.

Old Devil Moon is so (deservedly) popular that you must have your entire party present in order to be seated.

Old Devil Moon: 511 East 12th St., (212) 475-4357.

Sweets News

• Mon Repas, a shop featuring crepes, galettes, Callebaut-coated Belgian waffles and Liege caramelized sugar waffles, opens officially on Monday. If a regular-sized waffle is too much for you, you'll be able to buy a bag of minis. (50 West 8th St., (212) 254-0787.)
  
  
• The upcoming issue of Pastry Art & Design will include an article I wrote about the careers of today's pastry chefs. I interviewed eight chefs who are embarking on exciting new paths, opening dessert cafes, savory shops and more!

Sorrel

Sorrel's soothing, well-lit room sits at the end of a row of charming Brooklyn brownstones. I dream of living in one of those brownstones and indulging in Sorrel's $25 prix fixe every night. Even though I live nowhere near Prospect Heights, I know I'll be back to live the fantasy!

A recent meal at Sorrel was full of fresh spring vegetables. My friend and I began with the olive-oil drizzled white asparagus, which was livened up with olives and slivers of Parmgiano Reggiano, and the peppery chilled sweet corn soup. Then came the rich slices of Long Island duck in a sweetish orange sauce and lentils, and well-seared scallops over a tumble of corn and diced red peppers.

Although my friend isn't much of a dessert fan, she finished every last spoonful of her semisweet chocolate mousse. I opted for the slightly lighter orange-yogurt panna cotta, which was a refreshing, citrusy end to a delightful meal.

Sorrel: 605 Carlton Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 622-1190.

Attention All Literary-Minded Foodies!

Newly-launched Alimentum Journal is presenting a special reading at the Mercantile Library (17 East 47th St.) on May 22nd at 6:30 pm. And if your interest lies in reading rather than eating, there will be an appetizer-and-wine reception afterwards. Call (212) 755-6710 for more information.

Tempo (CLOSED 5/09 - how sad!)

Amazingly, many of Tempo's tables stood empty on Sunday night. (In contrast, the far inferior Aunt Suzie's boasted a line out the door.) Fortunately, I was able to enlarge my party to four without any reservation trouble.

Despite a few minor service issues, we all greatly enjoyed our meals. I reveled in the special appetizer: a large hunk of creamy burrata topped with a blanket of black olive tapenade.

My pan-seared black sea bass on a bed of arugula was expertly prepared, if slightly less notable than my friends' entrees, which consisted of: the outstanding tagliatelle trifolata - a tumble of hand-cut noodles in a luxuriant, rich mushroom sauce (I had a serious case of dinner envy there!), a roasted whole orata, which was served with a tableside drizzle of blood orange olive oil, and Arctic char with English peas, mint and Meyer lemon-buttered gnocchi. (We also ordered the chick pea fries, which, if not quite as light as Nice Matin's panelles, were very satisfying with their lemony mayonnaise. The chick pea fritter also makes an appearance in a sandwich at next door's Tempo Presto.)

For once I regretted my habitual chocolate dessert choice; I found myself chipping away at my friend's ricotta cheesecake with rhubarb compote. Still, I enjoyed the rich, multi-layered Brooklyn blackout cake, if I missed the advertised mocha whipped cream. I would love to make a repeat visit to Tempo; next time I might order differently. (One question... will the still-standing "Cucina Way" sign on 5th Avenue be replaced by one that reads "Tempo Way?")

Tempo: 256 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 636-2020.

Bad News For Coffee Achievers

Apparently, Wolfgang Puck's futuristic self-heating lattes are already a thing of the past.

Chiyono

I'd been meeting to visit this Japanese home-cooking spot for ages, but I kept forgetting the address. For some reason, it never registered with me that the restaurant was right by the prominent Mara's Homemade. Tonight, I walked by Mara's Arkansas barbeque ad and right into lovely little Chiyono.

A large vase of cherry blossoms decorated the long communal wooden table. (Chiyono pays special attention to the seasons; fried oysters are only available in winter, and fried eggplant in summer.) Since I had arrived between the hours of 5 and 6 p.m., the omakase (special multi-course meal) was still available. But at Chiyono, the omakase is not a special plate of sushi and sashimi; it is a dinner set of three appetizers, burdock soup, a choice of yuzu miso salmon or a fried sardine croquette, special rice, and dessert of the day. Since I have quite a large appetite, I ordered this special meal.

The set of three vegetable appetizers included a julienne of carrots and burdock in hot sesame oil, two chunks of Japanese eggplant, and a wonderful rendition of hijiki edamame salad, neither too sweet nor too vinegary. A well-peppered potato-burdock soup arrived afterwards.

Then, a plate of two large, miso-glazed, citrus-spiked salmon steaks arrived with a side of Japanese potato salad. Interestingly, the salad included golden raisins among the usual onions and cucumbers. I was also served a bowl of seasoned white rice; dried plums provided a smoky saltiness, and there were also sesame seeds and slivers of licorice-like shiso. I was amazed that the slightest sprinkling of these ingredients made the rice so flavorful.

The special dessert celebrated spring. Small preserved cherry blossoms had been baked into the green mugwort "chiffon" pound cake. A subtle sesame pudding, a spoonful of sweet azuki beans, a dollop of whipped cream and some sliced strawberries and apples completed the sweet. I also enjoyed the accompanying cup of roasted rice tea.

Towards the end of the meal, Chiyono herself came over to my table and talked about the special ingredients she cooks with. I was delighted to have made such a charming acquaintance and will certainly be back soon.

Chiyono: 328 East 6th St., (212) 673-3984.

A New Chocolatier In Town!

I never had the chance to dine at Zakuro before it closed, but I'm aflush with excitement about what's planned for the space it occupied. Max Brenner Chocolates, which used to operate the most wonderful chocolate bar at Harrod's, opens at 141 2nd Ave. on July 1. Another location, at 841 Broadway, will be opening on June 1. If my memory serves me well, Max Brenner will give ABC's Michel Cluizel Cafe a run for its money.


Max Brenner: (212) 896-3886.

Divine Frites At Cafe D'Alsace

Every so often, I'll develop a craving for a food other than chocolate. Strangely, this morning I awoke with a desire for French fries. I'd read something about the truffled asiago frites at David Burke at Bloomingdales (59th & Lexington Ave.), so I thought I'd start there.

I can't say that the cafe was inviting. The narrow room was packed with tired shoppers, and I was shunted to an uncomfortable stool by the window. I got hold of a harried waiter and ordered the fabled frites. When they arrived, they were cold and soggy. The truffle oil was a nice touch, but the shredded asiago was dry and cold, and the frites weren't well-salted. I didn't finish them (which is saying a lot).

This evening, I had another chance to satisfy my craving, and the second time was the charm. I took Grandma and Auntie over to the six-week-old Cafe D'Alsace, which is the first Upper East Side outpost of the French mini-empire which includes Nice Matin and Pigalle. (How perfect is it that the Alsatian restaurant landed in Yorkville?) I asked for the pommes frites (along with a Riesling-cream-sauced grilled brook trout garnished with white grapes and diced tomatoes) and they arrived piping hot, well-salted, golden-brown-crunchy and soft on the inside. Wonderful!

Cafe D'Alsace: 1695 2nd Ave., (212) 722-5133.

Barbounia

"How on earth did they get this octopus so tender?" I marveled. "It's blanched three times and then fire-grilled," said our waiter. The charred octopus appetizer, which also featured crunchy crystallized lemon zest, yellow grape tomatoes and fava beans, was the highlight of my meal at Barbounia.

I'd originally intended to try the restaurant's namesake appetizer (crispy barbounia), but due to weather conditions, the shipments of the little mullet had not arrived. So, in addition to the octopus, my companion and I ordered a picnic of starters: a board of sweet Italian salami with a tin of cornichons, and the trio of cheeses: olive-oil drizzled Parmesan and Taleggio with a terrine of pesto-topped ricotta. Oval cherry toasts, a branch of red grapes and some fig chutney accompanied the cheese. I wanted to order another serving and bring it to Central Park!

While we enjoyed the cheese, we sipped Abando Crianza, one of the excellent selections from the 20-page wine menu. (There was a rather long wait for the entree as the restaurant became increasingly full.) We shared the grilled dourade, which was crispy-skinned and redolent of thyme. Our sides were the herbed sunchokes and the creamy mascarpone polenta (yes, it's as good as it sounds).

Even though the cheese board was so dessertlike, we still ordered the special Moroccan chocolate pudding. This chocolate-cinnamon mousse was so dense that I could've eaten it with a knife and fork! It was topped with a healthy layer of whipped cream and served with churros. The fried donuts were not crunchy at all, but feather-light.

Barbounia: 250 Park Ave. South, (212) 995-0242.

Cha-An

Many restaurants stop serving lunch around 2:30 p.m. Often, I'll neglect to check my watch and then walk around in a hungry haze, wishing I hadn't missed the cut-off. Fortunately, I now have a trusty standby for those hours between lunch and dinner: Cha-An.

The menu is limited at this Japanese teahouse, but there's a wonderful lunch set (the "B") with changing selections. Today, the B included: two jumbo shrimp in a gelatinous spicy ginger-chili sauce, a tiny slice of quiche, crunchy hunks of bamboo shoot with caramelized onions, creamy seafood chowder with tomatoes, onions and shiitakes, tea-smoked salmon slices under a refreshing shredded radish and sprout salad, 15-grain rice, and finally, chocolate cake with mousse, cherries and vanilla ice cream. All of this was accompanied by a pot of my favorite Japanese tea, genmaicha!

Cha-An: 230 East 9th St., 2nd Floor, (212) 228-8030.

Find Friends Through Chocolate!

Clay Gordon (of Chocophile fame) is now hosting regular meetups at which like-palated people indulge in fine chocolates. But if you're not in the New York area, don't despair... chocolate lovers are everywhere!

Gribouille Patisserie Traditionelle (CLOSED)

"We printed out 100 take-out menus this morning, but they're already gone," said Timothy, the Parisian owner of the two-week-old Gribouille. I'm gratified at the instant popularity of this wonderul bakery-cafe! Among its many offerings are: quiche Lorraine both with and without bacon, Petrossian salmon sandwiches on fresh-baked brioche, organic omelettes, chocolate or coffee eclairs, lemon tarts, and delectable meringue-topped chocolate cupcakes. (Don't forget to ask for a "carte de fidelite" - once you've bought 10 pastries, they give you one free!) Timothy told me that he loves having his own cafe because he can serve all of his favorite foods. (They will likely become your favorites too.)

Gribouille Patisserie Traditionelle: 2 Hope St., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, (718) 384-3100.

Fresh-Baked Cookies...

...and performance art. Where might you find this juxtaposition? At PS1 Contemporary Art Center (22-25 Jackson Ave, LIC, Queens) this Sunday, April 9th from 3-6 p.m. The Scratch 'n Sniff Duo will be baking cookies while mixing live beats and sounds to celebrate the opening of PS1's "Reprocessing Reality" exhibit. Admission is free, and the cookies are as well.

Bouchon Bakery Snafu

As someone who hasn't yet scored a reservation at Per Se (I'm not very persistent), I was thrilled about the recent opening of Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery. However, my first experience was disappointing, and not because of the pastries (which were excellent).
I stepped out of the elevator, and there across from the A/X store was a display of the most exquisite danishes and tarts. Being in a comfort-food mood, I skipped over the beautiful mille-feuille napoleons and, in quick succession, ordered two vegetable jardiniere sandwiches, one giant chocolate-chip cookie, a TKO (buttercream Oreo) cookie, two "bouchons" (slightly-bigger-than-bite-sized brownies), a tuna Nicoise on ciabatta, an Illy cappuccino and finally, a beribboned bag of the aforementioned bouchons (I thought my grandmother might like them).

After browsing at Borders, I subwayed home and prepared to enjoy one of the jardinnieres, which had been advertised as containing sweet piquillo peppers. To my dismay, I realized that the bag was missing several important items. The two vegetable sandwiches were absent, but in a far greater tragedy for a chocolate-lover, the bag of bouchons was missing!

Morosely, I munched on my (terrific, olive-heavy) tuna Nicoise as I pondered whether I should call the bakery to try to claim the missing edibles. I'd paid in cash and hadn't kept my receipt.

There was no direct line to the bakery, just a voice recording, so I left a message for the cafe manager. She called back almost immediately and apologized, saying that if I returned, she would make sure that I received the sandwiches and "something extra for my trouble." By this time, the cafe was about to close, so I'd have to wait at least a day.

After one taste of the bouchon (meltingly chocolatey even at room temperature) I realized that I must return as soon as possible. The next day, I went back to the bakery, but the manager I had spoken with was not there! I explained my predicament to the slightly suspicious cafe personnel, and they packed up a bag of sandwiches, gherkins and bouchons for me.

Bouchon Bakery is definitely worth a second visit, no matter what the reason!

Bouchon Bakery: Shops at Columbus Circle, 3rd Floor, (212) 823-9366.

No. 28

Many shed a tear at the shuttering of Grilled Cheese NYC. But today, I tasted the Italian equivalent of the best grilled cheese sandwich ever. No. 28, an authentic Neopolitan brick-oven pizza joint, serves a sumptuous 3-cheese piadina which outshines anything I ever ate at Grilled Cheese. The big round flatbread is alternately crispy and chewy, and it's stuffed with a perfect blend of melty Mozzarella, smoky Provolone and a hint of spicy Gorgonzola. Pure heaven.

(For those who are interested, No. 28 also happens to be the default neighborhood hangout for fans of international soccer. The restaurant's lights brighten during the commercials and are dimmed during the game.)

No. 28: 28 Carmine St., (212) 463-9653.

Blossom

I'm always curious about a new vegan restaurant, but I'm less than enamored of Gobo and Zen Palate. Eternally hopeful, I enlisted the palate of a vegetarian friend and we made a visit to Blossom last night.

The wine list was expensive; I didn't notice a glass for under $10. We decided to conserve our cash for the edibles, which looked promising. The appetizer menu included a "South Asian lumpia" and phyllo-wrapped vegetables with tomato confit. My friend ordered the satay, which consisted of a tumble of sesame noodles topped with two skewers of grilled seitan in lieu of meat. Although the flavor of the grill was not apparent, the texture of the seitan was similar to that of meat, if a bit chewier.

As there was obviously no cheese in the salads, the chef had been creative with tempeh and tofu to approximate its salty, pungent flavor. In my friend's salad of field greens, grilled pears and candied walnuts, the crispy tofu cubes served this purpose. My salad was a plate of baby spinach leaves coated with plenty of horseradish dressing, red onions, tempeh "croutons," pumpkin seeds, and sliced wild mushrooms.

I had thought about ordering the pumpkin gnocchi with melted leeks for my entree, but instead went with the seitan "medallions" in a caper sauce with herbed soft polenta and broccoli rabe. The broccoli rabe was very garlicky and tasty, but the polenta was bland and not particularly herby. (I guess I'm one of those people who thinks that polenta needs butter and cheese.) The seitan adequately absorbed the light caper sauce (by itself, seitan is rather tasteless, being comprised of wheat gluten).

Although we had no room for dessert, I was sufficiently tempted by the dessert menu to visit Blossom again. (Pineapple crepes with coconut milk infusion, chocolate ganache torte, yum!)

Blossom: 187 9th Ave., (212) 627-1144.

Prem-On Thai and Sweet Melissa

It's never been a better time to be hungry on Houston Street, with the amazing lunch special at Prem-On Thai and the goodies at the nearby Sweet Melissa. (How did this branch of the Brooklyn bakery manage to escape my purview?)

I'd intended to lunch at the Le Pain Quotidien on West 8th, but every seat was taken by NYU. So, I walked over to Ushiwakamaru to see if they were open, but apparently they only serve dinner. Prem-On Thai next door, with its chic marble tables full of satisfied-seeming people, beckoned to me.

I was happy to see that Prem-On's lunch includes both an appetizer and an entree. For $7, I got two crunchy vermicelli-bean spring rolls and a delicious tofu curry with crispy and soft noodles. The egg noodles were a hidden treasure underneath the tofu, and all was smothered in a creamy coconut-turmeric sauce. Pickled greens and red onions provided a nice touch of sour and spice.

Although I toyed with the idea of ordering a trio of Thai creme brulee (lotus seed, Thai tea and ginger), I decided to be virtuous. That cause was lost the second I laid eyes on Sweet Melissa. What should I have, I wondered, and then came the more deviant thought: what shouldn't I have. I left with a Valrhona brownie, a Key lime tart decorated with sliced kiwi, one of the chocolate souffle cakes I remembered with such fondness from the Brooklyn store, a citrus chevre cheesecake and a dense chocolate peanut butter treat. So much for "no dessert!"

Prem-On Thai: 138 West Houston St., (212) 353-2338. Sweet Melissa (Manhattan): 75 West Houston St., (347) 594-2541.

Kanoyama

I made a happy discovery tonight at Kanoyama: the early-bird special. It includes such entrees as tempura don, salmon roe and sea urchin over rice, and eel over rice. I ordered the tekka don: rosy-pink slices of tuna blanketing perfectly vinegared sushi rice, accompanied by a romaine salad with mellow carrot-ginger dressing, two kinds of pickles, smoky bonito miso soup, sweet hijiki carrot salad, two slices of omelette sushi, and the Japanese version of potato salad (full of cucumbers and onions). All for $14!

Kanoyama: 175 2nd Ave., (212) 777-5266. The early-bird dinner is served until 7 p.m. on the weekdays and 8 p.m. on the weekends.

Cheeks Bakery (CLOSED)

Are you the sort of sweets lover who welcomes butter but abhors trans fats? If so, you'll be delighted by this new Williamsburg bakery. Open just 3 weeks, Cheeks Bakery sells delicious goods which are made exclusively with organic eggs and rBst-free milk. Owner Melanie explains, "If I always eat organic eggs myself, why shouldn't I also use them in products for my customers? It's the right thing to do." Melanie's passion for high quality ingredients is showcased in chocolate-banana bundt cakes, blackberry-buttermilk muffins, coconut cake with lime syrup, vanilla bean cheesecake, and for those who prefer the savory to the sweet, herb quiche!

Cheeks Bakery: 378 Metropolitan Ave., Brooklyn, 718-599-3583.

Po

Mario Batali may be long gone, but fans of the Italian home cooking that put him on the map are still flooding into Po. "Po is my favorite Italian restaurant in the city," says Brother Dominic, a Franciscan friar who has occupied a window seat for 10 years. "But you have to come for lunch; that's when Frank is here. He's the soul of the restaurant - he's been here from the beginning." Frank is the Croatian waiter whom the antipasto is named for. Not only is he stunningly efficient (I watched him easily dispatch a party of 17 without batting an eye), but he's hilarious.

"What is this, a cappuccino before lunch?" he laughs as he delivers my cavatelli with broccoli. "Is that a Maryland thing? Ah, they wouldn't even give it to you in France. IN FRANCE, they won't give you an iced tea - they look at the American like..." He then launches into a salty rant about the tipping habits of European natives by country. (No one fares very well.) By the time he's finished, I'm laughing so hard that I can barely eat. But I can taste enough to know that the cavatelli is deliciously chewy, and the broccoli is sauteed with plenty of garlic.

Brother Dominic and Frank commiserate about Batali's latest venture and how they've seen him on TV with Tony Danza ("Danza dyes his hair!" protests Brother Dominic). Steve, the original business partner, moseys in and makes himself a cappuccino. Frank pretends to tussle with him at the machine and yells, "Look at this, he can't even wait for a cappuccino!"

I finish a mint-flecked gelato covered with spiced nuts and go laughing into the snowy day.

Po: 31 Cornelia St., (212) 645-2189.

Sweets News

• Attention all Chikalicious Dessert Bar fans (and I know you're out there, because I could barely get a seat the other night!): On June 1, NYC's first dessert-only room will expand to thrice its size, moving to a larger site directly across the street. A back room will be available for private parties.



• Are you curious about how to pair chocolate with wine? Join Pastryscoop.com for a delicious lecture and tasting event at The French Culinary Institute on March 14th. There will be guest speakers from E. Guittard Chocolate Company and Baron Francois Wine. For more information, contact Pastryscoop.com at (646) 254-8542 or info@pastryscoop.com.



• You'll soon be able to purchase the world's first 100% organic lollipops.

Ravenous In Rhinebeck

Rhinebeck, a small village by the Hudson, boasts a disproportionate amount of gourmet delights. The Culinary Institute of America has a campus nearby, and some of the alumni stick around to feed the lucky natives. The influence of the school, combined with the wealth of local orchards and farms, ensures a delicious experience for miles around.

My companion took a one-day culinary survey of the town this past Saturday. We began at Terrapin Restaurant (37 Montgomery St., 845-876-3330), which is known for its inventive tapas and extensive wine selection. The creamy roasted garlic soup was zesty and soothing, and I greatly enjoyed a Fontina and onion quesadilla -its crisp flour tortilla oozed with cheese and was topped with a spoonful of salsa. (We felt that the macadamia-crusted calamari were somewhat less successful; the batter was reminiscent of what you would find around an onion ring, and the squid were chewy instead of tender.) We finished with a grilled Nutella sandwich and banana ice cream.

Next it was on to the Olde Hudson (6423 Montgomery St., 845-876-3933), a delightful little gourmet shop with barrels of olives and a variety of chocolates including those made by Jake Novick-Finder, a 14-year-old who trained in Paris and at NYC's own Chanterelle. The Jakery is the name of this precocious teen's truffle company (845-406-2796).

I was deeply impressed by Rhinebeck Health Foods (24 Garden St. 845-876-2005), which is not just for health nuts! In addition to bulk spices, organic pasta, and produce, the store features a wonderful imported cheese section (Mimolette, Fromage D'Affinois, etc.) and organic London Broil. The shop's casual Garden Street Cafe serves up a menu of soups, salads and wraps.

I imagine that no trip to Rhinebeck would be complete without a chewy white chocolate chip/dried apricot cookie at Samuel's of Rhinebeck, Inc. (42 East Market St., 888-726-8351). In addition to coffee and tea, Samuel's sells chocolate-covered plums, Sarabeth's preserves, and an enticing "Hot Fudge Sundae Cone" mix. Just open the "cone," heat up some cream with the chocolate powder, add to your favorite ice cream and sprinkle with the included chocolate chips and marshmallows.

The highlight of our day was a 4-course prix fixe dinner (at $55, a steal) in the Belvedere Mansion. CIA-trained chef Robert Mayerat presides over the French-inspired, constantly changing menu. We loved the shredded duck crostini served with a Brie souffle, the Stilton-crumbled arugula-frisee salad, the Alaskan salmon with shavings of black truffle and horseradish mashed potatoes, and especially the warm chocolate ganache cake accompanied by chocolate ice cream and crisp spun sugar.

If you'd like to experience your own day of deliciousness in Rhinebeck, the annual Taste of Rhinebeck will be held on Monday, March 20th! Call 845-871-3505 for more information.

5 Ninth

The Meatpacking District was uncharacteristically deserted on a chilly Monday night. As I sat down at 5 Ninth's rustic bar to wait for a friend, the bartender remarked that we'd have no problem finding a table. Indeed, for the first 30 minutes of our meal, we had the intimate, votive-lit restaurant all to ourselves. Then, the room slowly filled with regulars and excited initiates. (Next to us was a couple so enthralled with the menu that they ordered enough appetizers for 4 people.)

5 Ninth's Asian-influenced menu makes much use of pork. There are entrees of pork ribs and pork shoulder, two roast pork sandwiches, and a Berkshire pork belly appetizer. The menu also emphasizes sweet flavors such as Szechuan caramel, palm sugar chili paste and Vietnamese mint. We were also to discover a penchant for spice. The Italian bread was accompanied by chili dipping oil. Slices of green chilis fired up my yellowtail sashimi appetizer, and a whole red chili arrived with the Berkshire pork belly. The sweet-glazed, luscious slabs of pork lay atop a pile of garlicky, spicy long beans. The waiter advised us to punctuate a bite of pork with a bite of chili, and to then cool down the palate with a sticky rice cake.

Hot spices have an amazing ability to stimulate the appetite, so we were quite ready for the butter-and-sriracha-braised Jamison Farm lamb in chili lamb jus with gingered Chinese broccoli and crispy fried rice cakes, and the seared bass with pickled garlic, Japanese mushrooms and greens. The bass's skin was nicely crisp, but the portion was a bit small for me, so I needed to order a side of jasmine rice. (Sticky rice is also available.) Actually, I would've liked a whole order of the delectable rice cakes!

My friend doesn't have much of a sweet tooth, so she abstained from dessert, instead ordering a glass of Anton Bauer Gruner Veltliner. (My sweet tooth is enough for two, anyway.) Desserts included banana spring rolls and carrot spice cake; I chose the fresh doughnuts with hot chocolate and coconut sorbet. The four sugar-sprinkled, golden-brown doughnuts were heaped into a small white bowl. I rolled the hot fried globes around with my fork to catch all the excess sugar. Although the waiter recommended that I dip the doughnuts in the hot chocolate, I really preferred them on their own!

A small boy ran upstairs into the dining room. (I wanted to offer him a doughnut.) "Hudson, come here," called his mother. Has the Meatpacking District has become so trendy that people are naming their kids after its streets?

5 Ninth: 5 Ninth Ave., (surprised?) (212) 929-9460.

Pizza Freebies

Walking down a Williamsburg street, I caught sight of a large sign advertising free pizza. It turns out that although there is a catch, it's quite a small one! A pizza enthusiast has only to purchase one alcoholic beverage at Capone's Bar and he will be plied with an entire pie. What a deal!

I haven't yet been to Capone's, but I'm a huge fan of Waldy's Wood Fired Pizza & Penne, which offers its own unique freebie: complimentary anchovies. I'm aware that the appeal of anchovies is not universal, but who can resist a sweet and hot sausage pie with roasted peppers?

Capone's Bar: 221 North 9th St., Williamsburg, (718) 599-4044. Waldy's Wood Fired Pizza & Penne, 800 Sixth Ave., (212) 213-5081.

Supercore Cafe

After hearing the ominous weather forecast, I calculated how much time I had left before the estimated arrival of the snowstorm and headed out for one last restaurant fix. I just wanted a simple lunch, but I craved a hot drink - cider, or a cappuccino, or a hot chocolate.

I ended up with a perfect green tea latte at Supercore Cafe. Supercore is a comfy cafe/bar where you can linger over a book, surf the Web or share drinks and tapas. The decor is typical '70s Williamsburg with a bit of Japan thrown in. The cuisine lies somewhere at the intersect between Japanese homestyle and gourmet diner. Olives, goat cheese, edamame and dried squid are advertised on the tapas blackboard.

Supercore's reasonably-priced menu includes panini, beef curry, donburi, baked creamy parmesan penne, egg salad on a croissant, meatballs and pasta, and nikujaga. You can accompany your meal with either focaccia and salad, or rice and spinach. I ordered the marinated ginger-and-radish-topped mackerel ($6.50), of which there were three moist slabs. My spinach was smothered in sesame sauce, and there was a nice portion of seaweed-sprinkled white rice. And the latte was terrific. The sweet, creamy drink came in a cavernous mug which I could lift with both hands. When I took a sip, I was surprised by earthy, grassy green tea instead of the sharp taste of coffee.

I meant to order a warm chocolate cake, but when I looked out the window, I saw the first snowflakes begin to fall. And there was the bus: perfect timing.

Supercore Cafe: 305 Bedford Ave., Williamsburg, (718) 302-1629.

A New Definition For "Blind Date"

Here's a way to make sure your Valentine's date isn't checking out the competition: blindfold him! Where can you do this without attracting the attention of everyone in the room? At CAMAJE Bistro, which is hosting a 4-course Valentine's Day meal with mandatory blindfolds for all diners. According to the bistro's publicist, this concept originated in Germany, where there apparently exists a pitch-black restaurant. Is this a case of the blind feeding the blind?

CAMAJE Bistro: 85 MacDougal St., (212) 673-8184.

Organic Ecuadorian Arriba Cocoa Nib Brownies

I have a secret. Within the recesses of my refrigerator, there is a box of Arriba Nib brownies from Vosges Haut-Chocolat. Apparently, the cocoa nibs are redolent of jasmine and orange blossoms. I bought this box of brownies as a Valentine's Day gift, and it's going to be a very long six days until February 14 - how can I restrain myself from opening the box? Vosges was sold out of the individual brownies, so I couldn't buy one to try for myself.

Vosges Haut-Chocolat: 132 Spring St., (212) 625.2929.

An Out-Of-Season Craving, Satisfied

It may be the middle of winter, but you can still sink your teeth into a popular summer specialty: zucchini blossoms. Novita's Marco Fregonese religiously imports the little green gems from Israel, and then stuffs them with creamy bufala ricotta. The rich, slightly warmed cheese oozes out when you fork apart one of the lightly fried blossoms, which are served on a slice of prosciutto and a salad dressed with mustard vinaigrette.

Novita: 102 East 22nd St., (212) 677-2222.

Via Quadronno

Via Quadronno is one of my favorite cafes in the city. During the summertime, I often avail myself of the outdoor gelato cart; on a rainy day, I'll sit in the window with a cappuccino. Today, I decided to introduce my Italian-food-loving (well, all-food-loving) grandmother to Via Quadronno. (One of the great things about dining with her is that she always wants me to try what she orders.)

We arrived just before the noon lunch rush, which was lucky - a line of people soon stretched down the length of the restaurant. As we settled in our well-cushioned wooden banquettes, I began reading the menu to my grandmother, because she refuses to wear glasses. Via Quadronno specializes in Italian sandwiches: single-ingredient (mortadella, pancetta, salame) on French bread, open-faced tartines on thinly sliced brioche toast (white truffles and Fontina, bottarga, tuna and artichoke), and special Milanese panini with up to six ingredients. There are also many types of bruschetta and crostini (this place is bread heaven!), as well as salads, carpaccio, meat lasagna and a daily risotto and pasta.

I decided that the tartini would be just perfect for my grandmother, as they are rather small. She would've been overwhelmed by the smoked ham, goat, Camembert, fontina tomato, tabasco sandwich. Her choice was the open-faced jumbo lump crabmeat, and I went for the salmon roe. However, I knew I needed something in addition, and debated for a while over the swordfish carpaccio and the minestrone. The waiter made my decision: soup of the day. I munched on garlic bread and dipped it in the rich vegetable puree while my grandmother told stories about the much-missed 2nd Avenue Deli - a sandwich heaven of a quite different ilk.

Although the tartini were small, they did not skimp on sweet crabmeat or a blanket of sparkling fresh salmon roe. "Try mine!" urged my grandmother. I obliged.

Soon it was time for dessert and a fabulous Antica Tostatura Triestina cappuccino. "How's the tiramisu?" I asked the waiter. "It's the BEST in the CITY!" Once again, he made my decision.

Generally, I tend to be rather particular about tiramisu. I'm suspicious of parfait presentations, or tiramisu in a pie. I'm not fond of extraneous drizzles of raspberry and chocolate syrup. And nothing causes my heart to sink like the presence of whipped cream rather than mascarpone. But I knew we were in good hands here.

And indeed the dessert was perfection. A nicely freeform square of tiramisu was plush with lightly sweetened, creamy mascarpone. Its layers of ladyfingers were neither sodden nor too crisp, and there was just a hint of Marsala. I was surprised at how fast my grandmother finished it!

Via Quadronno: 25 East 73rd St., (212) 650-9880.

Cooking with Etsuko

Last weekend, I embarked upon a survey of Japanese ingredients at Mitsuwa Marketplace. Today, I learned about the uses for those ingredients at Etsuko Kizawa's Basic Japanese Home Cooking class. Etsuko, owner of Soy NYC, teaches a variety of classes in Soy's shoebox kitchen, and the students get to eat the delicious results.

Our lesson covered the preparation of miso soup, rice, oshitashi (a spinach dish) and sake-simmered cod. While expertly preparing the meal, Etsuko took the time to give us a primer on miso (dark red goes with clams, red is Tokyo-style and white is more common in Osaka). She spoke of adding different vegetable combinations to a simple miso soup: daikon and watercress, or potato and mushroom.

As she gathered the ingredients for the oshitashi sauce, she talked a bit about cooking implements. She mentioned the importance of her prized miso scoop and special tweezers for removing small fish bones. A giant pair of chopsticks was used to plunge the oshitashi spinach into ice-cold water.

We learned how to make the fluffiest short-grain rice (Etsuko prefers the pot to the rice cooker). We were also told of the affinity that soy sauce has for citrus, ginger's amazing ability to mask a particularly fishy flavor, and the use of sugar in Japanese cuisine. The aromas of delicious home cooking began to fill the kitchen, and my stomach started to growl. Etsuko covered the simmering cod with wax paper and showed us how the sweet sauce was bubbling underneath.

Not a moment too soon, it was time to eat. Soup was placed on the right, rice on our left (this was traditional, we found) with the fish and vegetables farthest from us.
As we ate with gusto, Etsuko recounted some of her latest experiments. Apparently her green tea Rice Krispie treats have become quite a hit, with customers bringing them to Japan by the batch. I can personally vouch for these treats!

Soy NYC: 102 Suffolk St., (212) 253-1158.

Gilt

I was recently asked if I were familiar with "molecular gastronomy." Although I was vaguely aware of the culinary experiments of Ferran Adria and Grant Achatz, I'd never eaten the fruits (and meats) of their labors.

My interest was piqued, and I began searching for articles about this culinary science. Apparently, some chefs are stretching food preparation to the outer limits of possibility. Armed with new technical knowledge and a desire to push the papillote, they're creating a whole new world of cuisine.

Tonight, my companion and I made a pilgrimage to New York's new shrine to molecular gastronomy: Gilt. We didn't know quite what to expect when we walked through the doors of what used to be Le Cirque 2000. (We'd imagined that the cuisine of 3000 would be housed in a structure more like this.)

However, Chef Paul Liebrandt's powerful imagination soon engulfed us to the point where we no longer noticed the decor. His cuisine naturally lends itself to metaphor; I found myself commenting that we were eating snowflakes - intricate works of art which melted in our mouths.

Gilt's menu includes "Classical" and "Modern" prix fixe selections (there's also a separate daily tasting menu). One may choose appetizers and entrees from either list. (I went with a classical appetizer and a modern entree.)

After ordering some Pinot Grigio (the cocktail prices made us wonder if the restaurant should've been named Guilt, or Gelt), we were served our first amuse-bouche: a spoonful of sprouts atop a heap of shredded filo, some arugula financiers with an internal surprise of melted Stilton, black truffle discs filled with red onion chutney, and dried beet curls with sour salt. The financiers included a sweet pear-raisin chutney that was just wonderful with the Stilton.

We were then delighted by a second round: artichoke foam with a hidden egg and crispy black trumpet mushrooms in a charmingly askew cup, smoky crimson venison carpaccio, scallop tortellini in a heady marine broth with pea shoots, and a disc of chicken accented with fennel. Each dish was a small universe of flavor, color and texture. I was reminded of chawan mushi, a Japanese egg custard which holds little surprises the farther one's spoon travels.

And then, the bread! How were we to choose from this selection of hot rolls: olive, Serrano, potato, sweet chestnut, and flaky brioche? Naturally, we each had about three of them. Two different butters arrived on stone slabs: unsalted L'Escure and salted English butter.

Then, we were treated to a stimulating palate-cleanser. A mother-of-pearl shell was the setting for a scoop of wasabi-sprinkled apple sorbet in a few drops of precious Armando Manni olive oil. Our appetites thus stoked, we were ready for our appetizers.

Although I'd been tempted by the porcini crumble with baby turnips, I'd ordered the butternut squash soup. Foam was poured on top of curried orange foam, a shard of Parmesan, crisp sage leaves and a few delectable Parmesan tortellini. My companion went modern, choosing the "flavors of winter." Of these five dishes, most memorable for me was the purple baby abalone jelly. There was also a crab cake underneath a gelee into which herbs were suspended and a plate of sweetbreads.

Another round of bread, and we were ready for our entrees. Each of them was a sort of themed fantasy: my companion's theme was beet, and mine was coriander. Beet puree surrounded thick slices of rich Peking duck and leaves of crispy red chard. (We were constantly amazed at the Liebrandt's ability to keep thinly sliced vegetables perfectly crispy in a soup or sauce.) More beets, served steaming from plastic wrap, accompanied the duck. My loup de mer had a crown of sweet coriander "glass," and underneath the fish I discovered a profusion of snow peas, pearl onions, Thai basil and tiny black squid-ink gnocchi. My side dish was a coriander fish stew; razor clams, large sweet shrimp and starlike baby squid sat in a broth with sea beans and tiny potatoes.

Dessert was just as elaborate. First, there was another amuse-bouche: clementine sections and lychee sorbet amid a smattering of crunchy orange cookie pellets, mint leaves and cubes of fruit gel. Then, for the main event, my companion chose the passionfruit souffle with sour cream guava sorbet (and more artisanal olive oil); I, of course, desired some chocolate. The menu listed two chocolate desserts: chocolate chili and chocolate peanut butter. The latter brought me to new heights of ecstasy. Described as an assortment of "warm chocolate croneski, peanut butter chocolate, rice crispie croquant and fleur de sel caramel," it was an intense concoction which mixed sweet and salty, creamy and crunchy. Streams of warm chocolate flooded out of three globes of chocolate cake, mixed with small dots of caramel, and made their way over to a dense oval of creamy peanut butter and chocolate atop a layer of nuts and crisped rice. Before I knew it, my companion's fork had claimed half of the peanut butter chocolate. I didn't mind, however, because a plate of petits fours soon arrived. (I loved the pistachio financier, the passionfruit pate de fruit, and the mint-foam-topped key lime tart.) Also, there was a cigar box full of homemade truffles: coconut, Pedro Ximenez sherry, mint, espresso, and matcha. We were told that we could eat as many truffles as we wanted!

As if all of this weren't enough, we were plied with pretty bags of homemade macarons upon our departure. I haven't yet mustered up the appetite to try them, but I know they are no ordinary macarons. True to the adventurous nature of Gilt, one of them is topped with chili powder.

Gilt: 455 Madison Ave. at the New York Palace Hotel, (212) 891-8100.

Mitsuwa Marketplace

Mitsuwa Marketplace is a sort of Disneyland for those who love Japanese food and culture (but especially food). The food court/grocery/shopping complex used to be known as Yaohan, but after changing names and undergoing renovation, it's even more of a food destination than before. Although Mitsuwa is not technically in New York, it's just a $2.00, 30-minute ride from Port Authority's Gate 51. The shuttle operates about every 30 minutes.

I caught the 1 p.m. shuttle today. After being treated to a brief tour of how the other half of the Hudson lives, I was deposited in front of Utsuwa, Mitsuwa's gift shop. Within, I found chopsticks, an assortment of tableware similar to that of Chinatown's Pearl River Mart, tons of Hello Kitty kitsch, and some other tchotchkes. (I bought a couple of those lucky cats.)

It is often said that one should not go grocery shopping on an empty stomach. So, after browsing through the Sanseido bookstore, I walked over to Matsushima, the free-standing waterfront Japanese restaurant. Unfortunately, this decision turned out to be a mistake. Although the menu was extensive and the display of lunch specialts appealing, the grilled fish in my bento was as dry as toast. Perhaps I just ordered badly; the other patrons seemed to relish their meals. At any rate, the waterfront view was pleasant.

Full, if not satisfied, I finally entered the mecca that is Mitsuwa. Now there's where I should've eaten. Since renovation, the food options have multiplied. Today, happy and hungry customers bustled to and fro, taking stock of all the stations. Many crowded around Katsuhana, a stand which sold fried pork and shrimp lunches. There was also a line of people waiting for bowls of steaming udon at Sanuki-Sando-Udon. Ramen sets were available at Santoko. I also noticed the Italian Tomato (pasta) and St. Honore (pastry) stands (these were identical to the ones at JAS Mart).

My map must have been out of date, because it listed Chinese and Korean take-out counters. Instead, there were two other businesses: Iseya, which sold bubble tea, "pizza buns," and small sweet cakes (obviously fresh ones, because an old lady was waiting near the cash register asking, "Are they ready yet?") and a counter devoted to fried croquettes, sweet potato tempura, fried Japanese mackerel, spring rolls and whole purple squids.

Manhattan's Minamoto Kitchoan was represented; I bought one of their chocolate sponge cakes and some green tea maple syrup puddings. I then walked past the woman handing out hot gyoza and noticed Oishinbo, which sold the beloved taiyaki, or sweet red bean-stuffed waffles shaped like carp. But since the cakes were served hot off the iron, I decided to pick up a couple when I was finished grocery shopping. Satisfied that I'd sufficiently cased the place, I started exploring the grocery aisles.

The home appliances were all cordoned off, with a sign explaining that Bergen County's blue laws prohibit the sale of home appliances on Sundays. I found this truly odd! Fortunately, none of the food was off-limits. The produce section featured an impressive variety of root vegetables such as purple yams (on sale), taro, Japanese sweet potatoes, and super-long gobo. There must have been a million types of miso! Moving onto the fish and meat sections, I saw that sliced ribeye for shabu shabu was on sale, as well as yellowtail sashimi. There were spices, there were rices... I excitedly grabbed a jar of yuzu kosho, a spicy citrus pepper which I'd first tried at Ony.

Even the beverage selection was overwhelming! Sake, shochu, soju, plum wine, iced chicory barley pu-erh tea... I bought a small bottle of junmai ginjo, some Boss coffee, and a precious vial of highest quality green tea leaves.

Next it was on to the frozen food aisle. Although I was trying to avoid buying perishable items, I picked up a few frozen eels (both barbequed and non-barbequed). My other purchases were a bottle of seaweed/rice cracker seasoning for rice soup, prepared spicy squid legs, and sesame-seasoned broccoli rape. Oh, and close to the cashier I saw that some sea urchin rice crackers were on sale. How could I miss out on something so exotic-sounding?

Mitsuwa Marketplace: 595 River Rd., Edgewater, NJ, (201) 941-9113.

Sweets News

• Valentine's Day will be here before you know it, and if you're looking for a way to profess your undying devotion, you might consider sending your beloved a dozen Wicked Whoopies. These giant cookie sandwiches, stuffed to the limit with 8 different creamy fillings, are sending me into paroxysms of delight. Isamax Snacks: (877) 447-2629.
  
  
• I'm happy to say that I've recently started writing for Pastry Art & Design. (Under my real name, of course.) Look for my first article in February; it's about feuilletine and features recipes by 4 great pastry chefs.

The Burger-Of-The-Month Diet?

Browsing in Barnes & Noble today, I noticed the prominent diet book display, which was obviously marketed towards guilty holiday gorgers. The featured tomes all seemed to conflict with one another. One title implored me to eat more bread, another to eat more rice. Still another promised to erase my wrinkles as well as my weight. There was the Jerusalem diet, the Japanese diet and a diet that promised me that if I could acquire French citizenship, I would never get fat.

After leafing through a 5-Week Cure and a One-Day Approach, I threw up my hands and went home. When I turned on my computer, I was confronted with the following E-mail:

O’NEILL’S INTRODUCES ‘BREAK YOUR RESOLUTION BURGER’ FOR JANUARY

Burger and Beer Program Makes Great Gift for Your Favorite NYC Carnivore

When it comes to breaking New Year’s resolutions the motto is go big or go home. Whether you’ve already broken your resolution or you’re looking for the right time, New York’s O’Neill’s Irish Pub is offering up a “Break Your Resolution Burger” for January that won’t leave your taste buds with any regrets.

For just $10, guests can enjoy a juicy “Break Your Resolution Burger” loaded
with blue cheese, guacamole and bacon, served with French fries and a pint of
Smithwicks Irish Ale for lunch or dinner.

The January burger is part of O’Neill’s 2006 “Burger of the Month” program
which pairs a specialty burger and French fries with a pint of beer for lunch
or dinner..."

I suppose I should just give up now.

O’Neill’s: 729 3rd Ave., (212) 661-3530.

Out With The Old, In With The New... Appliances

Every so often, I'll develop an obsession with time-saving kitchen gadgets. As an outer-borough dweller who spends hours on the subway, I eat most of my meals in Manhattan, but I still fantasize about cooking at home.

Sometimes a fascination with one machine will lead to another. A few years ago, I brought a Tiger rice cooker home from Tokyo. I was amazed at its ability to make perfect rice in 30 minutes. But as I was browsing through Amazon.com, I noticed an intriguing new appliance: the Zojirushi NH-VBC18 10-Cup Rice Cooker and Warmer with Induction Heating System. I just had to have this new-fangled rice cooker; it makes soft, regular, hard, semi-brown, brown, sweet, and mixed rice. Unlike other rice cookers, it features an "extended-warm" button that keeps rice moist for days. You can even program it to have your rice ready for you when you arrive home or wake up. I like to get up and pretend I'm in Japan... I'll have a bowl of rice mixed with egg, soy sauce and natto.

But I usually just have a cup of coffee in the morning. Although I love my stovetop Bialetti cappuccino maker, my quest for convenience has led me to scope out other machines. The Saeco Vienna Deluxe used to be my favorite coffeemaker, but I soon grew tired of cleaning the grounds from the inside of the machine. Now I just press a button each morning for my Nespresso.

Last month, my 8-year-old Black & Decker toaster suddenly gave out. I soon learned how far toasters have advanced the last few years... they've merged with convection ovens! Krups even produces a model in which you can push a button for cookies, or thin pizza, or thick pizza... I purchased the slightly less feature-rich Krups FBC2 6-Slice Digital Convection Toaster Oven. It includes a non-stick bake pan and a broil tray.

My last purchase isn't a replacement, but rather a new gadget. This appliance might seem a bit frivolous (indeed, one Amazon reviewer wrote that she stands by it "even in the face of ridicule"), but I've found myself using it more than I expected. The Krups 230-70 Electric Egg Express Egg Cooker makes 7 hard-boiled or soft-boiled eggs, or 2 poached. (When boiling them the traditional way, I'd always forget about them and they'd crack.) Make some toast and you'll have an instant breakfast, or save the boiled eggs for your next Nicoise!

What's Better Than Le Bernardin?

Why, Le Bernardin by the pool in 80-degree weather, of course. Eric Ripert, the restaurant's celebrated chef, has brought his craft to bluer pastures with the opening of Blue and Periwinkle at the Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman. I'm reminiscing over my recent delicious experiences there on Salli Vates' Traveling Food Page.

Enoteca I Trulli

If you don't crave the fanfare of a multi-course meal, but rather a glass of wine and a light dish, NYC's wine bars were made for you. Every day it seems that another excellent restaurant has spun off a cozy, informal lounge. Al Di La Vino and Bar @ Etats Unis spring to mind, as does the lovely little Enoteca I Trulli.

For some reason, I've always found I Trulli to be on the ascetic side (you won't find four-cheese-anything there). Perhaps the cuisine of Apulia is characteristically light? I don't know, but after all my holiday indulgences, I thought I should (temporarily) practice moderation.

I sat down at a wooden table inscribed with various wine labels, although there were still seats at the bar. While sipping a glass of Montepulciano, I noticed that the menu was a somewhat abbreviated version of the one next door. The ravioli of the day was chicken and mushroom, but I decided on a simple bowl of chewy cavatelli. The flour dumplings were very lightly sauced with broccoli rape, garlic and olive oil; a few toasted almond slivers provided an interesting crunch. Almost no sauce remained once I was finished with the generous portion of pasta.

Naturally, I wanted to see the dessert menu. I opted for the lightest selection - the assortment of sorbets. (Of course, I had to bring an additional dessert home for the hungry companion. A dense, warm chocolate hazelnut cake was greatly appreciated.) The sorbet dessert featured three flavors: fruity quince, tangy pear and bracing, almost bitter (in a good way!) grapefruit. A sprig of mint, some grapefruit sections and a homemade cookie garnished the bowl. Next time, I intend to sample one of the intriguing wine/dessert pairings; various wines are matched with pecorino, sweet pasta and homemade biscotti.

Enoteca I Trulli: 122 East 27th St., (212) 481-7372.

BLT Fish

I thought that the transit strike would empty out the restaurants, but BLT Fish was as crowded as ever last night. My friends and I sat down a little before 10 p.m. We'd originally intended to eat at the downstairs BLT Fish Shack, but the menu from upstairs just spoke to us (as did the relative quietude).

Before our chosen selections, we were presented with an amuse-bouche of smoked salmon and finely minced apple with creme fraiche. We were then surprised by the deceptively humble cheddar-chive biscuits, which in my opinion, were one of the most memorable foods of the evening - moist, buttery and flaky all at once. I tore my steaming biscuit apart and slathered it with butter and maple syrup. As I think back on the amazing popovers at BLT Steak, I wonder if a BLT Bakery could be next for Tourondel.

The grilled Ecuadorian shrimp appetizer was sold out, so I ordered the spicy tuna tartare. It was similar to BLT Steak's rendition in that the square of tuna was served on a layer of avocado. However, it included a dollop of American caviar and was creamy with spicy mayonnaise. Its flavor did not include a hint of soy, but rather zesty lemon.

The menu, which features whole fish by the pound, included sea bass and Cantonese-style red snapper. But when I heard that only one Mediterranean loup de mer remained, I had to order it. My friends enjoyed the four plump grilled Maine sea scallops and the Alaskan king salmon steaks with tangy ginger ketchup and mild roasted garlic aioli. My own loup de mer arrived already filleted; although the fish was moist and rich-flavored, I prefer the spectacle of a whole fish. Not to mention, it fills the plate!

Our chosen sides were the Parmesan gnocchi, baked fennel, garlic mashed potatoes, garlic spinach and grilled asparagus. All were exceedingly rich! The asparagus was topped with thin slices of Parmesan, buttered bread crumbs decorated the fennel, and the gnocchi were half-an-inch deep in cream.

By now our stomachs were groaning. Naturally, I was the only one to order a dessert (the others were satisfied by the complimentary green apple cotton candy and petits fours). Deliberating between the lime millefeuilles and the caramelized meringue, I finally decided on the pumpkin tart. The accompanying ice cream provided an interesting cognitive dissonance; expecting a mouthful of cold ice cream, I was hit with a rush of hot spice. I would've loved to take home a pint of it! And it was only fitting that having begun my meal with a crunchy-topped tuna tartare, I would end it with a crunchy hazelnut-topped pumpkin tart.

Next stop, BLT Prime!

BLT Fish: 21 West 17th St., (212) 691-8888.

Gifts For The Gourmet

Are you still stumped for holiday gift ideas? Here's a present any foodie friend will appreciate: an international cooking class. The New School teaches everything from a "Roast Suckling Pig Workshop" to a "Paris Bistro Feast." But if your friend is more interested in dining out, the "BEHIND THE SCENES AT THE GREAT RESTAURANTS OF NEW YORK ™" series may be right up his alley. (Or, if his table manners are less than adequate, you might want to enroll him in "Dining Etiquette for Adults.")

A Regular's Lament

I was becoming increasingly devoted to the Japanese fusion cuisine of Komegashi (928 Broadway, (212) 475-3000). I loved the thick, rectangular slabs of grilled skewered fish and the unexpected flavors and textures in the maki. The Valrhona chocolate souffle accompanied by homemade maple, vanilla and orange-chocolate ice cream was a treat I looked forward to. And there was that "regular" treatment... when the waitress noticed that I'd left a piece of sushi untouched, she would ask the chef to prepare any fish I wanted to replace it.

So, you can imagine how disconcerted I was to learn that Komegashi will be no more after next week. The restaurant has been sold. Apparently, four out of five NYC restaurants close within five years. But I wonder, what is the reason for this particular failure? Were the guests expecting a more traditional Japanese cuisine? Were they put off by the beef jus/red wine/soy dipping sauce that was served with the skewered meats and fish, or did they not appreciate the sprinkling of sansho pepper atop the freshwater eel? It's true that the offerings were not inexpensive; a "foamed" miso soup with fried tofu was $6. But many New Yorkers willingly pay premium prices for quality Japanese food.

Presentation was certainly not the problem; nor was decor. So, I surmise that the location did Komegashi in. Just one block east, Park Avenue South teems with crowded restaurants; I couldn't even get a seat at Haru tonight. But there aren't many places to dine on Broadway in the lower 20s. Komegashi was the only restaurant on its block. Adding to this problem was the fact that Komegashi's building was landmarked, so there were heavy restrictions on signage. Many people walked by the door without even realizing that there was a restaurant inside. (Slightly south of Komegashi, the still-popular Craftbar features a prominent sign.)

I wish the new owners better luck, but I'll miss Komegashi. I may even stop by next week to enjoy my "regular" status for the last time.

Heirloom (Closed as of 4/06)

Pure Food And Wine owner Matthew Kenney has added another establishment to his rapidly expanding vegetarian empire: Heirloom. Open just a week, Heirloom already seems to have its formula down pat. The servers are knowledgeable and friendly, the semicircle banquettes are comfy, and the food is artfully presented and sometimes startling in its creativity.

The restaurant is upscale, but it aims to comfort. Tonight, my companion and I were delighted to receive a complimentary basket of jalapeno hush puppies. Although I would have liked a bit more jalapeno, I did get the requisite kick from the accompanying spicy creme fraiche. (There was also a maple mustard butter.)

Although the portobello "foie gras" appetizer sounded appealing, I decided on the carrot soup. A spiral of creme fraiche, a hint of chive oil and a few chewy carrot dumplings had me tilting the bowl to collect the last few drops of soup. But I was especially enthralled with my companion's "tempura sushi." Gossamer slices of persimmon, artichoke and chayote were colorful stand-ins for sushi fish, and tempura haricot verts provided some crunch in the maki.

I enjoyed my entree, but my heart belonged to my companion's "seafood trio." This assortment of trumpet royale and bluefoot mushrooms was disguised as seared scallops, fried calamari and grilled fluke, which were served on a bed of garlicky sauteed spinach. The scallops in particular were eerily authentic. I ordered the moqueca, which is a Brazilian shrimp stew usually served with rice. Heirloom's veggie interpretation showcased delicious chunks of flash-fried housemade tofu, but excluded the rice; I missed it. (The accompanying banana pepper empanadas were a nice touch.)

My dessert was an impressive, cocoa-dusted tableau of chocolate-syrup-drenched black cocoa cake, espresso ice cream and crunchy roasted coffee bean bark. A layer of sweet chestnut spread inside the cake balanced the strong chocolate and coffee flavors. My companion ordered the raisin-studded, white-chocolate-iced spice cake. (I ate all of the caramelized walnuts on the side.) And in the interest of providing the most comprehensive review possible, I also tried the chocolate parfait, which was really a nut-sprinkled chocolate mousse atop some jelled grapes... I suppose I'm more accustomed to a cake foundation, but you'll never catch me complaining about chocolate.

Heirloom: 191 Orchard St., (212) 228-9888.

An Early Christmas Present

Yesterday threatened to elapse without one moment of deliciousness. But when I threw open the door, ready to collapse onto the couch, I noticed a mysterious package. That's funny, I thought; I hadn't ordered anything online in quite a while.

Upon closer inspection, the package appeared to be a gift, and indeed it was. A good friend (who is the proud keeper of a very enthusiastic dog) had sent me a box which contained the most amazing artisanal gingersnaps. Large chunks of sugarcoated candied ginger rendered these cookies absolutely irresistible. After downing one, I found myself reaching for another, even though they were huge. Then, I happily tumbled into bed and had sweet dreams.

Michel Cluizel Chocolat (THIS STORE CLOSED IN 2008)

Please pardon my recent lapse in posting; I've been busy consuming my own weight in chocolate. The opening of Michel Cluizel Chocolat is both a blessing and a curse, because my attempt to save room for dessert is now an attempt to save all room for dessert.

Ever since I first discovered the inconceivably chocolatey Grand Lait bar, I've been an unabashed devotee of Michel Cluizel chocolates. With a 45% cocoa content, this very special bar combines the deep complexity of dark chocolate with the richness of dairy. This is just one of the many treats at Cluizel's one-month-old cafe.

Michel Cluizel Chocolat is unapologetically adult-oriented. (Indeed, one of the guided chocolate tastings is marked "ADULTS ONLY.") There are several different "choctails" including a Chocolate Russian, and you can order assorted liqueurs in chocolate bonbon cups. This atmosphere, and the comfortable banquettes, create an aura of romance around the room. Today, one couple sitting next to me fed each other chocolate fondue. (My companion, regrettably, is on a diet.)

I didn't quite have the stamina for a 50-minute chocolate tasting, so I opted for one of the desserts. The menu included the afore-mentioned fondue accompanied by churros (perhaps taking a page from nearby Pipa's book), frozen white chocolate Chantilly, chocolate mousse, old-fashioned buttercream-frosted icebox cake, dark chocolate crullers, and chocolate-chestnut "decadent" framboise. I don't believe I've ever seen the word decadent used as a noun; I'll have to adopt this usage. Or, at the very least, I'd like to adopt the habit of eating this particular dessert on a daily basis. The tartness of the raspberry coulis was a perfect foil for a creamy dome of divinely rich chocolate-chestnut mousse. I also enjoyed a cup of Moka D'Oro coffee blended with Michel Cluizel hot chocolate mix.

Of course, I had to take a walk around the center display full of chocolate. I noticed that, like La Maison Du Chocolat, Michel Cluizel offers bouchees. These bonbons on steroids are offered in quite intriguing flavors; I chose the plum marmalade. I also bought some salted butter "Guerande" caramels and a 16-piece ballotin. I guess I just won't have room for dinner tonight!

Michel Cluizel Chocolat: 888 Broadway (inside ABC Carpet & Home), 646-602-3262.